monday 11th november 2013

Riding Zone

End of October, we had a meeting in Fontainebleau with Guigui to turn a little story for Riding Zone on "the extreme couples".
The show was released last evening on France Ô.

See it during the week on Pluzz. Beginning of the story to 23min30.

monday 19th august 2013

Training France / Japon / Allemagne

Thursday and friday, in Fontainebleau, national teams of France, Japan and Germany met for a training camp.

tuesday 30th july 2013


monday 19th july 2013

Few days in Magic Wood

Since July, I spent a lot of time for training in gym. So with Guigui and Alban, we decided to go to Magic Wood.

Thursday, the first day, I was very motivated to climb the boulders that I tried last year. Also, I try directly "Pura Vida" a crimpy 8Aa+. I warm up in and quickly, I do all the movements except the first (which is the hard movement on the boulder). I tried many time without success. Then, I repeats the following to not fall when I succeed the first movement. After, I'm getting tired so we change on another boulder.
And at the end of the day, I try the movements of the second part of "Never Ending Story".

Pura Vida

Friday, I feel that my finger is tired... I think I started a bit too hard on the crimps yesterday!
So I decided to climb slowly to not to hurt again.
Direction the Darkness Cave. After a good warming up, I try "The right hand of the darkness" 8A, the easiest boulder in the cave. The hard movements are the 3 first, I'm a little scared with my finger, so after to have sending the end, I stop.

Saturday, rest day.

Sunday, I start the day in the first part of "Never Ending Story". But it rained all the night and the beginning is wet. We try to dry the beginning and I try the end but I'm not in the good shape and it's long to repeat the movements.


Never Ending Story Part 1

The, we return in "Pura Vida" but I can't do. On the same boulder, I try one 7C and one 8A but I miss one movement on each boulder...
End of the day for me!

Monday, the last day, I decided to go in easier boulders.
I start on "Gollum", a 7C in a roof. Not so easy to warm up, so I put a lot of attempts but I finally succeed.


Then I go back to "The right hand of darkness". I start to do the end. Then, I work the 3 first movements. I do the 2nd and the 3rd many times. After, I try many beta for the first movement. And when I do it, I send the boulder.

I finish my day on "From the Dark to the Sunshine" a long 7C+ in the cave again. I put 2 attempts and I fall in 2/3 of the boulder. Then I try the end and 2 attempts later, I send it...

I couldn't do the boulders I tried last year. I think I was too tired with the 3 weeks of training! We will return!!
Few days of rest, before the international Open of TAB...

saturday 13rd july 2013

Objectif September 2013

After two World Cups in America, I had a 2-3 weeks break without climbing to rest physically and mentally.

At the beginning of July, I restart training for the European Championships in Eindhoven on the 31st August and 1st September... The program for these 2 weeks, a lot of physical preparation
to do what I could not do earlier this year because of my finger injury.

Today, it was colder than the past few days and it was windy. So for the first time of the year, I went to climb in Font.
I went in Mongolito, in Buthier. A physical 8A in a roof so well in the theme of the moment...
After a quick warm-up, I go in the roof to find my beta. After 30min, I had all the movements.
A little rest and again 30min after, I send the boulder !!


A few more days of training and I go to climb in Magic Wood, a lot a projects of last year!!
Then, direction to L'Argentière la Bessée for the Tout à Blocs...
And immediately after come back to Paris to finish the preparation for the European Championships.
For this, a training session with German and Japanese teams (14-15 August) and the World Cup in Munich (23-24 August)...

friday 5th july 2013

World Cups Toronto (Can) and Vail (Usa)

One month ago, with the French team, I went to America to participate in two World Cups.



On this stage, physical boulders in general. I finished 13th with 1 flash.


Semi 1

I don't have much success in qualifications and I qualified in the semifinals with just one boulder.
The next day, the boulders of the semifinals are more difficult. I only flashed one bonus (like 8 other climbers). It will miss me not much since the last qualified in the final has two bonuses...

After these 2 stages, a short break before training for the European Championships!

monday 22nd april 2013

Interview Planetgrimpe

Read this interview on the website http://planetgrimpe.com/2013/04/interview-de-melanie-sandoz-qui-va-signer-son-come-back/

thursday 21st march 2013

BeIN Sport

This morning, with our DTN Pierre-Henri Paillasson, we went into the studios of BeIN Sport to participate at the Expresso Show.

This program talks about the sports news. It's presented by Vanessa Le Moigne and Thomas Villechaize, L'Expresso is clear and daily live from 6am to 9am.

Replay here http://www.beinsport.fr/replay/category/3361/video/465950/title/melanie-sandoz--bon-pour-lescalade-detre-aux-jo

tuesday 19th march 2013

New partner : SK'lab

SK'lab, recent company, offers an innovative system of fixing the climbing holds, with the system SK'fix which replacing the screws. This system is faster, safer and more reliable.

SK'lab is partner of the World Cup at Millau which took place on 5 and 6 april. If you are there, go to have a check on the stand...
Meanwhile, go to see the website http://sklab.fr/index.html

Thanks to SK'lab for their support...

friday 1st march 2013


For this year 2013, I join the Elite Team of PowerBar.


I can't wait to test it during the 2013 season in some weeks !!

One month ago, I injured my finger. I have rested for some weeks until my finger got better.
I will not participate at the French selection this sunday because I still have pain my finger. I hope to be able to climb soon and participate at the first stage of the World Cup in China in 3 weeks...

thursday 28th february 2013

Millau's World Cup

Poster of the Millau's World Cup

Interview at one month of the World Cup at Millau http://www.couleurcaillou.fr/7-news/63-interview-m%C3%A9lanie-sandoz.html

monday 21st january 2013

Champion's ceremony

Last thursday : direction the house of the French sports in Paris.
The CNOSF celebrate the French champions : 182 World Champions, 21 Olympic medalists were present at this invitation.


All champions were honored and

Olympic medalists

It was also an opportunity to deliver Olympic symbols for the Olympic medalists at the JO in London.


sunday 16th december 2012

New training center

The new national training center is operational since 2 weeks.
This is the walls of bercy's qualifications which are built at the CNSD in Font.

After the World Championships, Nicolas Januel and Rémi Samyn take care of the boulder French Team.
There are 2 groups : the "Elite" group with Guillaume Glairon Mondet, Jérémy Bonder and me and the "Relieving" group with Fanny Gibert, Elsa Ponzo, Manon Chapet, Seb Valran, Clément Lechaptois, Gael Marty et Nicolas Pelorson. The "Elite" group is train at the CNSD and the "Relieving" group is come here every 3 weeks for stages.

This week end took place the 2nd training stage French Team (the 1st took place on the end of novembre at Block'Out 2 because the walls were not yet at the CNSD).

At the program : competitions situations (qualification and semi final rounds of World Cup), boulders with themes, boulders with limited tries and physical preparation.
These stages are more for the "Relieving" group. But between musculation and suspensions, we climbed a bit with them.


thursday 13th december 2012

Interview Adidas Outdoor

You can read it on the Adidas's website.

Here http://melaniesandoz.blogspot.fr/2012/12/interview-adidas-outdoor.html

thursday 6th december 2012

Express travel in La Réunion

Thursday afternoon, I took my luggage, direction to La Réunion.
After 11 hours of flight and a very short night on the plane, I finally landed at Saint Denis. I just had the time to pick up my bags and there was journalists and radio waiting for me at the exit.


Since we were excepted at the town hall of Saint Leu for a welcome drink, we just had the time to go to the beach.

On saturday morning, the competition starts : first stage of the French Cup and first comp since the World Championships, which was not easy to manage...
Indeed, the status of World Champion, patron of the competition... Everyone were looking me during my climbing, enough to put me a lot of pressure.

With all this pressure, I start the contest with doubts ! I climb too tense, I want to ensure, I don't dare to try. And after 1 hour (of 1h30 contest), I had only send 4 boulders and put 1 try in 2 others boulders.
After a small trimming, it's a little better and I send 7 others boulders in the last 20 minutes.
With 11 boulders, I finish 1st in qualifications, few tries ahead the second.

Now, a few hours of rest to prepare to manage the pressure during the finals as I was going last.
The morning, I was surprised because I was not really focused on what I had to do. But I didn't want to get caught in the evening !

In isolation, I resumed all my habits and everything was better. I can really focus on the boulders and don't care about what are doing the others.


I made some mistakes, especially tactics : too much tries or not at the right time. But I managed to give all my power, especially in the last boulder where I had a really big fight until the end !


In final, I flashed 2 boulders and I won the comp ahead Cécile Avezou and Fanny Gibert.
And I leave with Kikou, the mascot of this stage of the French Cup.

To conclude, a hard comp, nervously and mentally but I learned a lot of things which will help me for future competitions. Also a comp very well organized, congratulations to all !
I would like to thank the Regional Comity for their invitation and welcome...

And on monday morning, I was already on the road to the airport !
Now, back to training to prepare the next events which will happen very soon...

wednesday 28th november 2012

Riding Zone

15 days ago, with Guigui, we went to Blocbuster's gym to meet Tiga, the presenter of the show Riding Zone on France O.

Every week, an overview of the actuality of extreme sports, presentations of sportsmen, musicians.

You can see it, this sunday at 4.50pm on France O. On this show, a presentation of Guillaume and Me and Tiga's initiation of climbing...

Live http://www.pluzz.fr/direct/franceo

saturday 24th november 2012

French Cup in La Réunion

This week, the weather was bad and we were not able to climb in Fontainebleau. But thursday, I go to La Réunion to enjoy the sun for few days.
In fact, I was invited to support the first stage of the French Cup.

More informations here http://www.ffme974.org/competition/coupe-de-france-de-bloc/

Thank you to them...

thursday 15th november 2012

L'Art Sylvestre

News : Opening of the online shop.

Manufacturing of training equipment with a good very wood and finishing quality !
Go to check here.

At the same time, I thank them for their help and availability when I need !

My fingerboard

wednesday 7th november 2012

La Sportiva

After many years of climbing with their climbing shoes, I'm really proud to join the La Sportiva's team...

A small sample

monday 22nd october 2012

Bleau Open

Yesterday, we go to Gand in Belgium. Still many people for this contest.

Not easy, after 10 days of climbing, to do 4h30 of contest. 40 boulders to do in different styles. Good for me, because I don't have a lot of endurance and I could try a physical boulder and after a technical boulder...

In 4h30 of climbing, I send 29 boulders, enough to go into the final as it was necessary to do 20-25 boulders.
After a little break, the finals take place with Chloé Caulier, Magali Hayen, Camille Faille, Roxane Durand and me.

Finals like in international : 4 boulders - 4 minutes.
hard to climb again, because I was so tired of this contest and no more skin...

The boulders in final are not so difficult but we have to climb well.
First boulder is a dyno, we are 4 to send it (3 flash it). Second boulder is a mantle with little holds, only Chloé and me flash it. So, we climb for the win on the 3rd boulder, a physical boulder with good holds. I flash it and I'm the only one to do it. And unfortunately, the 4th boulder is too hard and nobody send it !

Women's results : I win followed by Chloé, Magali, Camille and Roxane.
Guigui wins for the 4th time. Men's resume on his blog.

For the 3rd time, it was like every year great to take part to this, with good routesetting, good peoples, and good organisation.

Big climbing session! We come back with a lot of aches and no more skin...
A rest day and tomorrow training !!!

saturday 20th october 2012

Come back to climbing

After 3 weeks of holidays, it's now 10 days that I come back to climb.
A quiet come back with a maximum of sessions in Font when it wasn't raining... And some sessions in Antrebloc. Results : big aches !
The come back was hard, things are getting better and better...

Tomorrow, for the 3rd year, with Guigui, we go to Belgium, for the famous Bleau Open.
On the program, 40 boulders, 4h30 of climbing and after finals.

And next week, back to serious things, since we restart training.
Very busy weeks ahead !!

thursday 27th september 2012

Video World Championships

Video editing of final of the World Championships by Fred Ripert !!

wednesday 19th september 2012

World Champion !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A weekend full of emotions ...
A rest day after the qualification,Saturday morning, the semi-finals took place in great area.

I didn't have a good feeling when I warmed-up, I tried to not worry about that, but I can't make a good warm-up. I stay focused on the begining of the circuit. I started before last, additional pressure wich is not easy to manage. I get behind the boulders and the pressure begins to rise, the desire to do well...

From the first boulder, I climb too tense. I know there are still 3 boulders and I must do my best until the last try of the circuit... After boulder 2, I understand thatnot so much girls did it, but I know that I still did a lot of attempts. Boulder 3 was not send. when I came front of the the last boulder, I know that everything will play on it! I read well but falls 2-3 times at the same movement. I'm starting to be nervous and told me that I must absolutely send it. I still can't top this problem, and thought that the finale is going away...

I leave my circuit disappointed because I had the means to do better and I think I am not qualify for the final. I go to see the scoreboard and see myself 6th also last qualified for the final. I wait a bit to see if it's change because I don't believe it and I think it hasn't been updated. A few minutes later, nothing has changed.
In summary, a semi-final where I climbed too tight even if I really wanted to make the effort to be released to climb well, but most was done since I qualified for the final...

In the afternoon, I try to rest but I'm already tomorrow, so psyched to climb in the final!
At 18.00, Bercy opened for the public : opening ceremony, the boulder men final, handisport, lead women, women speed. A lot of people, good atmosphere. And besides all that, a victory in Handisport by Nicolas Moineau with the Marseillaise singing in Bercy... It get me psyched to be the next day... So, a little hard to sleep because I was so excited !

Since 1 month, I was preparing for this comp with the goal to qualify in final. I knew that everything would be possible in final. Unlike my previous two finals where I started in the 2-3 last, there I will start first. Really ideal for me so I will not ask me questions about what makes the other !

After a night and morning thinking about this final, I really want to climb at my best, enjoy the event because the World Championships in France at Bercy with too many people doesn't happen every day!

Sunnday 12.15, observation. After this one, I was confident, I was able to send it.
13.00, the excepted time... It 's to go in the first boulder, I was so excited and I wanted to climb...

It's my turn, I climbed relaxed in the first boulder and all goes well. Then, the second boulder is a dyno with crimps on the end. I concentrate well, look at the holds and I flash it.
After this boulder, even if I try to not listen, not think about the result, I understand that with 2 boulder in 2 tries, I'm first ! I force myself to not think about it and think about the 2 other boulders to do because nothing is decided yet.

The third boulder is technical, after a small error of beta, I sent it in 2nd attempt. I'm still in the first position after this boulder and we are only 2 to do 3 boulder. I can't think too much, I must continue to climb well.

Just before going in the last boulder, I hear that Christopher said, "then you know what is happening..." and the audience began to cry. I try to stay calm, I focus on the boulder. I'm doing everything I can but I can't.

I go behind the boulders and I don't have the right to leave, I have to wait because the podium is guaranteed!
And after some quick calculations, I realized that if Anna doesn't flash the boulder, I win ! Have to watch the end of the comp on the screen behind the boulders and Anna went last, as you say that the time was long...
Turn happens and a few seconds later, she took a try. I become World Champion ! First international victory in the World Championship in France, I couldn't hope better. With many people came to push me on the top...
Then a great time, the Marseillaise with all people singing in Bercy... Awesome

The reward for all the hours of training, effort and sacrifices I've made in lasts years...
I would like to thank Nico Januel who give me a lot this year and has always been behind me and always believed in me... Thank you again !
And thank you to my boyfriend Guigui for supported, helped... in good and bad times !

Now, holidays, rest before training for the next year... 

Results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1439&cat=ICC_FB

Crédit photo : Damien Csery-Kairn.com  

thursday 13th september 2012

Bercy, it's gone !!

Since the time we waited, we are... I counted all days two last weeks. I looked forward to this competition, now it is done!

After the long day yesterday watching the start of qualifications (boulder men and lead women), wait wait, wait...Today I start the qualifications of this World championship. All went well, I finished first of my group, I sent 5 boulders in 7 attempts! Even if I climbed a bit tense on this tour because I wanted to ensure a minimum.

In the semifinals, I'll have to climb relaxed, take risks, never give up ...
The shape is there, and I'll give the best to the end !

Following Saturday at 10.00 for semifinals ...

For waiting, a rest day tomorrow to follow Guigui and Jerem in boulder and Laura, Julia, Cecile, Hélène and Charlotte in lead at 10.00.

Here http://www.ifsc.tv/

Provisional results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1439&cat=ICC_MB

tuesday 28th august 2012

World Cup Acte VI : Munich

This weekend took place the last stage of the World Cup in Munich.

2 months after Vail, we had time to rest and train. For this last stage, I couldn't go up in the overall and as I was already qualified for World Championship in Paris (in 15 days), I just went to make final adjustments before...

Qualifications are going well, I make some bad runs but I send 5 boulders. I feel that the shape is there, good for the rest of the comp... I'm 7th of this round.

The next day, it was the semi-finals.
In isolation, I'm in a strange shape that I have never felt in comp : I tell myself that I have nothing to lose, I will try things, if it works it's fine and if it doesn't work no matter because now the goal is the World Championships !

I change nothing, I warm up for this semi-finals as usually.
I arrive relaxed and confident in my circuit. After the first boulder, as I passed in the last of the starting list, I see that all the boulders are done but I'm still in my circuit and I focus on what I have to do... I give all my power till the end and I sent 4 boulders in 8 attempts. And I finished 2nd in semi, so I qualifed for my second final in a row this season...

To summarize this semi-finals, I think I never climb as well in semi-finals. From beginning to end of the circuit, I was confident, I stayed focus on what I must do and not on what others are doing, I was able to really give everything in my runs to the tops, I climbed released and I took risks. All that I missed earlier in the season...

Then place in the finals !

Already at the observation, I ask myself questions and I began to doubt... I can't stay in the same way of mind as for semi-finals, I don't climb well, too tense and I am completely out of my climbing !
I ended 6th.

And 8th of the overall World Cup (3 places better than last year).

2 finals on the 2 last stages : two 6th place. I now manage to climb well in semi-finals but I'm still missing something to express myself in final...
Lot of positive things about this stage, and some details to improve to be ready in 15 days !!

Results of this stage http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1377&cat=ICC_FB
Overall of the World Cup http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=ranglist&cat=ICC_FB&cup=12_WC

friday 24th august 2012

J-1 : Last World Cup !!

After Adidas Rockstars, I took the time for well finish my preparation with a big week of training (training with French Team, strength, resistance...). Then a little rest.
Today, after 2 months without World Cup, we go to Munich for the last stage.

Last step before the World Championships in Bercy !

Goal for this stage : Final


Beginning of competition on saturday with the mens at 10.00 and the womens at 15.00..
The streaming here http://www.ifsc.tv/

tuesday 14th august 2012

Adidas Rockstars

This weekend, all boulderers had a meeting in Stuttgart for the second edition of Adidas Rockstars.

Perfect organization by Adidas (hotel, isolation, physiotherapists, timing...) !


For me, being in full training cycle and with my forced rest for a few days after the master of L'Aquila, I made 2 big training sessions 2 days before leaving...
Therefore, I am arrived tired in Stuttgart ! I missed a bit of success in the semifinals, as I send one boulder and I fell on the top of the other 3... I finished in 14th place.

Results http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/uploads/media/FullResultsAdidasRockstarsWomen_01.pdf

Today, off to Fontainebleau for a training with the French Team...

tuesday 7th august 2012

Video Magic Wood

The video of the week in Magic Wood (by Alban Besnier)

monday 6th august 2012

Adidas Rockstars

Friday and Saturday, go to Stuttgart for the second edition of the Adidas Rockstars.

Walls and box created especially for the event...

To be continued...

monday 6th august 2012

Festival Arrampicata in L'Aquila

This weekend, we went to L'Aquila near Rome where we were invited to a master.

It all starts at 21.30 for mens and 23.00 for womens to avoid the hot ... With a circuit of 3 boulders and 4 'of climbing.

After a good warm-up on the ground, I start to climb a little too hard and I hurt an abdo. A little worried about the rest of the season, I climb restraint on qualification... Hard boulders, but I'm doing fine, I flash the 1st boulder (only Anna Gallyamova get 1 bonus in 5 tries).

Then, everything is reset and all is played on 1 boulder with 2 runs for everybody. I start last and before me, 2 girls sent the boulder. I don't climb well, too tense and it will not pass ... I finished 4.
In men, Guigui wins...

Now a little rest, hope to get back without abdo pain... To follow Adidas Rockstars next weekend !

tuesday 2nd august 2012

Video Tout à Blocs

Summary video of the TAB by Fred Ripert

monday 30th july 2012

Tout à Blocs

The final stage of the French Cup took place this week end in l'Argentière la Bessée.

Friday morning, a warm and sunny day for the qualifications. This is a contest : 2 hours, 12 boulders and 5 runs per boulder. I flashed 10 boulders and finished 1st in qualifications.

Saturday, after a rest day, night session for the finals... Good vibes with Christopher at the micro and a lot of spectators despite long final round.
I came to this comp to win the overall of French Cup. With my victory on this stage, it's done !
After 2 months without competiton, it was a good opportunity to get back, just before the next international events...


Results of the stage http://www.ffme.fr/uploads/escalade/resultats/2012/bloc/2012-cdf-bloc-tab.pdf
Overall of the French Cup http://www.ffme.fr/uploads/escalade/resultats/2012/classements-cdf/2012-clast-final-cdf-bloc.pdf

Now, at the program a training with French team tuesday and wednesday in Fontainebleau. And after a master in l'Aquila (Italia) saturday...

tuesday 24th july 2012

Magic Wood

After 3 weeks of trainning, 1 week in Magic Wood !

Foxy Lady 8A

The first days were difficult, the time to get used to climbing on the rock and crimping.

Supernova 7C

Then a few sends came :
- Jack the Chipper 7C
- Supernova 7C
- Foxy Lady 8A
- Nothing Changes 8A

Still some regrets not having spent more time in some boulders (like Never Ending Story Part I, Pura Vida), maybe with more days of work, I could sent them!? Next time...
As I didn't stay more than one day per boulder.

Nothing Changes 8A

A video of our trip is coming ... (with Guigui and Alban)

Now a bit of climbing indoor before the next meeting to the TAB on Friday and Saturday!


tuesday 17th july 2012

Outdoor Show Friedrichshafen

From 12 to 15 July took place the outdoor show at Friedrichshafen, the opportunity to see new gear and meet the sponsors...

Now 1 week in Magic Wood !!

friday 29th june 2012

Interview Bercy

Official website http://worldclimbing2012.com/

monday 25th june 2012

Inauguration Adidas Showroom

Last Tuesday, we went to the opening of a Adidas showroom in Annecy.

The opportunity to meet with officials of Adidas Outdoor in France.
Good evening...

We also had the chance to make our own shoes :) !!


saturday 23rd june 2012

Mount Charvin

After Vail, with Guigui, we took 2 weeks of holidays without climbing.
We went for a hike to Mount Charvin in the Aravis.

A summit at 2400m. We had chance to have a sunny day, but it had snowed the day before... 1000m of elevation that I have won a few aches in the legs!

At the top, a beautiful view of Mount Blanc and other peaks of the Alps !!

We quietly climbed back this week, and tonight contest in Antrebloc...

sunday 10th june 2012

Videos World Cup Vail

Reports on the World Cup in Vail


Videos of the Teva Mountain Games which took place in the same time as the world cup : http://vimeo.com/43440622

wednesday 6th june 2012

World Cup Acte V : Vail

This time, we went to the United States for the fifth stage of the World Cup.
We landed in Denver on Wednesday afternoon, have ​​a stop in Boulder to climb in the gym "The Spot" where some of the best world climbers were present (Austrians, Japaneses, Slovenians...).

We went to Vail on Wednesday night.
The competition began on Friday morning. Here, change from the other stages, it’s girls who start in the morning. Not so bad for me because of the jetlag, I was woken every morning around 5.30-6am perfect for going in isolation at 8.30!

The qualifications are going well even if I make some mistakes, I flashed 3 boulders. A good American style with physical boulders, a run and jump and a dyno not very usual especially in a qualifying round.

Saturday morning, at the same time, was the semi finals.
I warmed up exactly same way as yesterday, I felt good, confident, even with a neck contracture due to a big fall in qualification.

The boulder 1 is a slab, before me, I felt that not many people sent it. I try, I trust in my feet and I flashed it.

Boulders 2 and 3 were physical boulders. “Arriving in front of them, it seems to be my style. I climb released, I have a good feeling and I also flashed it.
At the moment, this is the perfect round, but on the boulder 4, I haven’t changed my beta for the last move and fall 3 times up there.”
That’s enough for qualifying for my first World Cup final!

It’s a cold final start as the rain was invited...
The boulder 1 was a slab without hand with a sideway dyno, everyone sent it with more or less try. The boulder 2 is more powerfull with features.
Because I was tired, and at 2500m above the sea level, I was really weak after these big fights on this boulder…

The boulder 3 is on small pinches with a dyno at the end. My last attempt in the second boulder still cost me a lot and I can't go to the dyno in this boulder.
The last boulder was also very physical. I went up but again, I didn't see the beta (we had a dyno where we must return the right hand during the jump...). 

I finished 6th. In summary, a semifinal where I managed to climb well. In the final, I gave everything I could and I learned a lot about this comp. And I really enjoyed to climb on these boulders...
Andmore of that, I won my place for the World Championships in Bercy !

Now, two weeks of holidays before restart training to prepare the final stage of World Cup and World Championships...


Semi finals


saturday 2nd june 2012

Pictures World Cup Vail

The qualifications of the World Cup in Vail are being completed. The boulders generally in good American style with some technical movements ...
I flashed 3 boulders and finished 12th.

Provisional results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1372&cat=ICC_FB

See you tomorrow for the semi finals from 18.00 (French time).
The live http://www.ifsc.tv/

A few pictures :



 tuesday 22nd may 2012

World Cup Acte IV : Innsbruck

After a not so good qualifications day for me, the semi finals took place on saturday afternoon.
In the morning, I do what is necessary to put all chances on my side by waking early, good warm-up...

On friday evening, I had a pain in my right big toe so I was unable to stand up on my feet !
In the first boulder, I was thinking of too many things except my climbing, and I can't climb well !! In my last try, I do the first move but I rush to catch the bonus hold and I fall (because I thought I had no more time). My circuit begin badly as 13 girls send it ...
I push myself to the limit and I flash the second boulder. But for the boulders 3 and 4 it was the same as boulder 1...

I finished 16th. With Vienna and Innsbruck, Austria isn't a successful place for me !!

Results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1371&cat=ICC_FB

In one week, we flight to the fifth stage in Vail (CO)...

Videos of the competition

Semi finals

saturday 19th may 2012

Pictures World Cup Innsbruck

Yesterday afternoon were the qualifications of the fourth stage of thebouldering World Cup in Innsbruck.
I don't have a great qualification's circuit but the essential is made as I qualified for the semi finals.

Provisional results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1371&cat=ICC_FB

A few pictures :

wednesday 16th may 2012

Next one in Innsbruck...

Three weeks since the third stage of the World Cup in Vienna.
Time to rest a bit because I was very tired after three comps in three weeks, but also
time to come back to the training for the rest of the season. Tomorrow morning, we will leave for the fourth stage in Innsbruck...

Men's qualifications begin Friday from 10.00 and women's qualifications at 15.00!
You can follow us here http://www.ifsc.tv/

sunday 13rd may 2012

Inauguration of Blocbuster

Yesterday, we went to the opening of the new Parisian gym : Blocbuster which is located in Courbevoie.

More than one hundred boulders of all levels were open for the occasion with new holds, box, and really sticky wall, that is enough to use our skin of fingers (and knees, elbows...).
At 18.00, we made a small demonstration like a final with three boulders opened by Remi Samyn. With Guigui, we flashed three boulders. Behind, there is Cecile Avezou and Manu Cornu. And third position, Elsa Ponzo and Nico Januel.

A gym with many varied profiles, many angles, edges. And more volumes will be added later. A large "pan Güllich" (not finished yet but it should arrive soon!), fitness and cardio area ... And a very welcoming team ... Moreover, they have established a partnership with the French team and give free access to members of French team. Many thank to them!
Go climbing there, you will not be surprise by the quality of the gym...

Website http://www.blocbuster.fr/

friday 4th may 2012

Impossible is nothing

This is with great pleasure that I join the Adidas team...

sunday 29th april 2012

Videos Vienna



sunday 29th april 2012

World Cup Acte III : Vienna

This week end, we went to Austria for Vienna World Cup.
As many climbers as Dragomer, so we still had 2 groups in qualifications... But this time, we had to wait 19.15 to the start the qualifications because of the sun (hopefully it doesn't rain in Vienna this year!)

The qualifications going well like each time from the beginning of the season. Even if I did a try in the first boulder because of the pressure !
I sent 4 boulders in 6 attempts. And I fell at the top of the slab (boulder 3) rushing because of time. I finished 4th on my group.

Saturday morning, after a short night, it was the semifinals !
I went completely off. Throughout this tour, I hadn't good feelings and I had trouble to concentrate...
I finished 15th.

I end this comp feeling really tired physically and nervously, with the sequence of the 3 first stages in 3 weeks.

Results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1373&cat=ICC_FB

Now, rest for a few days to decompress and go back in my best shape for the rest of the season !!

The next stage in 3 weeks in Innsbruck, Austria...

 thursday 26th april 2012

Videos Dragomer

Videos of streaming to Dragomer...



And today, leaving for the 3rd stage of World Cup in Vienna !
The streaming to follow tomorow from 10.00 for the men's qualifications and 19.15 for the women's qualifications !
Here http://www.ifsc.tv/

tuesday 24th april 2012

World Cup Acte II : Dragomer

A few days after come back from China was the second stage of World Cup in Dragomer in Slovenia.

First stage in Europe, so many more people !
We were 51 climbers at the start. There were 2 groups in qualifications, so no mistakes to do. In my group, we had to sent 4 boulders in 5 tries !It's going well, I sent 5 boulders in 7 attempts. And I was 5th of my group.

The next day was semifinals.
The 1st boulder was a slab, I do it in 3 attempts, after a false beta in my 1st try and a hand zip on my 2nd try. In 2nd and 3rd boulder (crimpy boulder and boulder with volumes and dyno), I don't get the bonus hold. The 4th boulder is a corner overhang, I sent it in 2 attempts.
I don't have a good circuit even if I do 2 boulders, I still wasted too many tries (like China) !!
To qualify for the final, we had to do 2 boulders in 3 attempts.

I finished 8th. After two stages, I am 6th of the World Cup ranking.

Results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_FB

Next one in 3 days in Vienna in Austria. I hope it will going well...

thursday 19th april 2012

Videos Chongqing

Links of qualifications and semifinal's streaming to the first stage of World Cup in Chongqing.



monday 16th april 2012

World Cup Acte I : Chongqing

Beginning of the season of bouldering World Cup in China !
After a long travel, I get to Chongqing on wednesday evening. Thursday is a rest day to try to recover jetlag.

Friday, qualifications going well. I flash 4 boulders, the boulders were physical. I qualify in the semifinals in 6th place.

Saturday, I don't have a good semifinal circuit, with first attempts wasted... An errors to correct for the following season. I realize 1 boulder in 2 attempts and I finished 9th, just at 1 try to the final !!

Results http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1379&cat=ICC_FB

The following in few days in Slovenia...

saturday 7th april 2012


A few days before take off to China for the first stage of bouldering World Cup, we are going to climb with the sun in Buthiers.

Appartenance 7C and just after the sitstart 7C+ for me and Mongolito et Misanthropie both 8A for Guigui.

Video http://vimeo.com/39974624

Here is a short editing of Welcome to Tijuana 7C in Envers d'Apremont (1 month ago) http://vimeo.com/37491353

friday 6th april 2012

Articles of French Championship

 A video summary



sunday 1st april 2012 

French Champion

This weekend was the French championships at Millau. First goal of the season!

All starts Friday morning with qualifications, it's going well for me and I flashed 5 boulders, with two other women (Cecile Avezou and Anne Laure Chevrier).

Saturday morning was semifinals. My circuit starts badly because I fall really low on the first boulder, not seeing the good beta. But I stay inside all the way and I flash boulder 2 and boulder 4 in 2 attempts, which rank me 2nd.

Now comes the final ...
It begins with a dyno, I'm a little tense and I miss a hold. I put 2 attempts to do it. The second is a symmetric boulder which was a bit special we didn't know which way to go, so I sent it in 3 attempts. We are only 4 to solve this boulder with different attempts (Melissa, Cecile and Marine). The boulder 3 is crimpy and no one did it !
Now the last boulder, this is where everything can happen... I pass before last, and before me, no one get more than the bonus hold ! In my turn, I know that the boulder is in my style and if I want to win, I have to do it! After two tries, I'm almost there and I feel I am able to do it. So I start determined in my third try, I give all my power, and went to the top !


After 2 years finishing 2nd, I won my first French championship ! What qualifies me in French team for three stages of the Bouldering World Cup in Europe (Dragomer, Vienna and Innsbruck).

And more of that, I won with Guigui ! <3

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